Shashmaqom in the courtyard
Two musicians, a dutar and a doira, under the vine. Forty-five minutes, no microphones.
Shashmaqom is the classical music of this region — six cycles, learned by ear, older than most of the buildings around us. Rustam and his son play here on the second Friday of the month, starting when it gets dark. Guests of the house sit for free; neighbours come too, and there is tea.